||With increasing demands on environmental protection in recent years, the Government agency concerned has recently proposed the strategies for shore protection and management, which aim for prevention and mitigation of coastal disaster and reduction in coastal erosion, as well as the creation of an environment with focus on landscape, ecology and community recreation. Soft and quasi-natural approach will be implemented to restore the glory of a stable coast.|
Based on the consideration of disaster prevention, this study investigates the beach profile changes, which include beach berm erosion and bar formation resulting from storm waves with different return periods. The SBEACH model is used to estimate the beach changes subject to variable conditions of beach berm width, medium sand grain diameter, beach slope and design water level etc. Regression analysis is then applied to establish a relationship between the storm beach buffer width and relevant physical parameters. Prior to this, the results of large wave tank tests on beach profile changes conducted by Coastal Engineering Research Center in the United States are used to calibrate the two main parameters K and ε used in SBEACH model.
Beach profile changes can now be estimated systematically using a set of modified K and ε values. After having performed a series numerical studies, we may conclude that: (1) With storms of different return periods but identical non-dimensional fall velocity (H0/ωT), berm erosion increases and the location of the bar becomes further offshore as storm return period increases ; (2) With different sand grain sizes subject to identical storm wave conditions, beach berm erosion increases as grain size increased, but shoreline retreat decreases; and location of bar is further offshore for a beach consisting smaller sand grains; (3) Under the same storm return period and sand grain diameter (i.e., similar non-dimensional fall velocity), berm erosion increases as storm intensity and design water level increase, but shoreline retreat decreases and bar is located nearer; and vice versa; (4) from a series of calculations based on different sand grains and storm beach buffer width, it is found that larger buffer is required for beach with smaller grain size, in order to absorb the storm wave energy.